GREY NOTEBOOK

1 DEC - 16 DEC   2012



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3 DEC 2012

it's raining. it was 7.54. you were going to sit down and begin


                                                                by the time you sit down now it is raining eerily out of a bright blue sky. one cloud must be directly over this tin roof because the surrounding bands of sky are blue with scattered high white clouds. the palm trees stick up into the blue bands glittering and now we can say: scintillating freshly, as Peter said they did, after this small, light, rain. you will know or you can find out about   || Ponge's description of the rain sweeping the courtyard ||   which recalls Tinguely's machines. the rain has finished now and sparse drops from the various eaves, small trickling sounds remind us. in fact what we are seeing all around us is delicate machinery being driven by clumsy operators; therefore we dream repeatedly of situations where we are fumbling, with our big stiff finger to activate some pause mechanism. of course we cannot locate the key combination; we cannot establish any control over the machine's progress. it's not a metaphor. the maintenance systems of Mtwara Tanzania are                     under threat if not in collapse. it's hard to read a kind of frontier town: with its seemingly ad hoc zones: its long spans [ / spaces ?] of neglect and seeming abandonment interspersed with flurries of new construction. you're sitting in the middle of a newbuild reeking of new concrete. the smell of concrete turns your stomach as the smell of diesel turned the stomach of Mr Petit, he told you one time - the lecturer in agricultural engineering who worked with diesel all his life. or my grandmother and fish. the blades of the palm leaves have dried out now and on the corrugated roofs the last strips of damp are visibly shrinking in the hot troughs of the corrugations. should machines be misused and misapplied? tunajiunga mkono kichwa hicho - we join our hand(s) to that heading of course they should. however                                                             you are thinking of some people

to do:

      podcasts + broadcasts
      video + audio
      shopping + cooking
      get 3G router + aerial + set up network

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pillows x 6    mto (mi-)
mosquito net x 6
grater
      Cecy [sic]
      Jonathan
      James

water
fruit         mangoes

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kamba    string
-funga    tie

4 DEC 2012

youre sitting outside on the front of kalilo house eating a piece of bread. you have a cup of coffee. a young woman in a black and white striped top and a black and orange kanga is filling a red bucket and a pink bucket to water the plants which have been planted in Goldstar paint pots. the kanga shows an orange heart insecibed in a larger heart with sharply serrated edges, adjoined to a modified fleur-de-lys with other minor ornamentation.

kalilo arrives to discuss outstanding work on the house. by the time he leaves, after discussing in detail the issues affecting each service, the girl in the kanga with the serrated heart motif has gone. we do not know the marginal text which, in any case, was twisted over at her waist - and partially obscured. meanwhile, a young man or boy in a yellow football jersey has begun brushing down the front of the house with water, on the instructions of Mr Kalilo. you go inside, where the carpenter has begun to hammer. the curtains move in the breeze: one curtain with a kind of hairy applique of foliage on a fine net; the other a translucent cream polymer something like the texture of fine linen. where the cream curtain blows aside, the blue sky with palms on long narrow trunks are seen above the white parapet through the mesh lacunae, which themselves shift, sometimes showing just sky, palms and power line, sometimes the parapet and inset bars with spikes. these spikes, formed by 2 angled cuts at the crushed end of a square tube, are designed to make a fence more dangerous and threatening to climb. in this case their effect is onrnamental or psychological since it is easy to climb the plain metal gate or hop over the block wall to the side. P climbed over the wall with all the shopping. later she discovered the gate was open. you're in a place made turbulent by building. there's relatively little zoning and little homogeneity among the houses. rapid building and dilapidation seem to be proceeding side by side: this new building, eg, beside a traditional thatch-roofed building with wattle and daub on a wicker frame - this houlse set back from the road on a plot of which the front, direclty adjacent to this front street side corner room of the Kalilo house, is occupied by a part-built house of cement blocks on a concrete plinth. a yound man of student age came to visit his family the very first day you were here: you saw his mother come out to greet him, wearing a red floral kanga - he was wearing broad belted trousers and a button-up shirt, with a shoulder bag - you didn't see the moment of contact between them - you took over the bajaj, which was decorated with strings of orange plastic flowers threaded through little chains around the windshield, a bunch of artificial roses on the dashboard and an ornament of curled ribbon hanging from the ceiling. you waved briefly at the yound man as he and his mother passed between the corner of Kalilo house and the incomplete newbuild on his own family's plot, towards the mud-renderd, hairy roofed structure at the rear of the plot, where perhaps he was born.

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things [objects] in the mirror are closer than they appear

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ResourceAfrica.co.uk ? docs on env in africa

• glasses x 12 • thermos big • Axion dishwashing soap • sponges • bowls - plastic x 2 - 1 'small' 1 'med' • squeegee • small knife • dish towel • dustbin [bucket w lid]

WED 5 DEC 2012

you're sitting drinking coffee eating sweet potatoes. S is brushing her hair.

kataupepo wind turbine haridari mustard seed mbegu nyeusi kalonji

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paula pillows x 2 TSH 5000 chandalua x 3 TSH 10000 refreshments TSH 30000 + 4 bajajis TSH 20000 look at transport and food [ie budget]

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sketch of an adaptor plug from 2 to three pin

wakala agent, agency -shika to get, to catch kamba string

strong. stronger. SIMTANK

8 DEC 2012

you're sitting in the yard in the dark at Kalilo house under the tin awning. you're waiting for the rice to cook. a breeze moves the leaves. a man in the house nearby has a cough. his dry coughs punctuate the night over the insects and the leaves. the leaves fluctuate. the insects, seeming steady at first, in fact come and go, dropping to what sounds like a lone individual, then as a chorus. chorusing behaviours have been documented by Geoff Sample. some of these effects are amplifications created by amphibians and others; some are effects of the listener, depending on other elements in the soundscape, your wandering attention and the alternating saturation and re-sensitisation of the aural apparatus, I think.

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9 DEC 2012

you're sitting in your toom in Kalilo House waiting for breakfast. the others are making chapatis and fruit. the fan is blowing a breeze on you. outside it's hot. open the door: go outside. across the road is a thatched house rendered in red clay. the roof is shaggy, recalling the shaggy house ['small hairy house'] or the green roofs at [that artists residence in the west of scotland]. the roof overhangs at the front supported on poles, and a line runs between the poles now hung with fresh washing: children's shirts and   patterned cloths. there are more clothes blowing on a line in the back where the yard looks dark and shady with thick small-leaved trees and long-stemmed palms above. it's hot and clear. the sky is blue and hot. sometimes a   palm swift   will cross quickly. then it is empty. people pass shuffling. [trail] their feet on the dirt road or glide by on bikes.
roosters.

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stafeli   (ma-)   custard apple
fenesi   (ma-)   durian

-azima    to borrow, to lend

_________

drawing of a sweet
pipi   sweet
ungo   rice winnowing basket
-chambua   to pick over rice
-pembua   to pick over rice

pay:    Holly: return Dar - Mtwara       Rachel's flights    check + pay George's flights    check + pay travel for graduates

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10 DEC 2012

you're eating breakfast at the front of Kalilo House you're having bread and honey and coffee. a breeze is blowing in Kianga, the small fishing and farming village on the edge of Mtwara, Tanzania. the honey you are eating is from Tabora. all the honey you eat seems to come from Tabora although you have seen hives hanging in a tree on the road to Lindi and you even saw a single hive yesterday in the mangroves between Kianga and the Vocational Training College - suspended at chest height in the mangrove scrub like a small white coffin. any. [?] it seems that any person who sees an example of: a slight distortion in scale - a shrinkage but equally an enlargement by a factor of say + / - 1/5 - a person things [sic] immediately of Dead Dad, the sculpture by Ron Mueck, which shows the dead dad clearly but somewhat subtly diminished - shrunk - lying face upwards - stiff - of wood or polymer - also tonally diminished: faded, bled out, pale as a ghost [although, coming recently across a photograph of this sculpture it seemed to you that the shrinkage of the dead dad was not consistent: some parts of the party appeared relatively enlarged, and equally the bleaching effect was partial, with parts of the body and face, as it seemed, selectively seeming to retain or even display heightened colour as if flushed, rouged..] - approximately the size of a 10 yr old child? were the implications, we can say, of such a sculpture to be taken on board, we could anticipate a profound transformation in the life of our society, you think, in our person and collective live - however, either the Dead Dad of Ron Mueck is in some was insulated from entering our consciousness, of the presentation of Dead Dad to the public has been so selective, so framed and so, we can say, innoculated against, as to render it innocuous - producing if anything a brief localized discomfort, experienced as a transient minor disease, such as we struggle to differentiate: to recognize, pin, identify, incoprorate: open to - we are tempted to led [sic] down beside Dead Dad - our legs in fact weaken - our knees and the weight of head, like the large brained infant we are - bursting through the pelvic floor - the guards, however, have a close eye out for would-be mourners and exagerated types and reactions - all these exhibits are tagged as likely disturbing to children - of course the exhibits should warn adults about the caesura likely to affect their fellow feelings their so called natural feelings: the chronic and even catastrophic retardation atrophy and cauterization likely to be brought to light in the face of a work such as Dead Dad - a work by an artist or actual - guests arrive

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Mataka [neighbour : taxi driver]


diagram of the layout of the COTC Mtwara computer system, showing cables, switches, access points, etc
WED, THUR, FRI - work on lab
TU - documentation on thin clients
9AM TTCL

________________

10-12-2012

you're lying in bed. you went to the market and into the butcher. the butcher had big black hooks with pieces of meat on them. you greeted the butcher and he sliced off 2 kilos of meat in pieces and cut them up into the scales, breaking the bones on a block in the corner with an axe. you payed TSH 14000 and went out. the butchers' are identical tiled rooms free standing with a glass door and a porch. sometimes there is a picture of a cow or the head of a cow on the outer side wall. you bought fruit and beans and rice and flour and potatoes. George bought a carton of cigarettes. you and George and Max rode home in a bajaj. on the big road under construction before Kianga you passed a roller going backwards; then at a place where a grader was turning you were diverted from the road . the road was being surveilled by a group of women in scarves and high vis vests. they seemed very beautiful. you turned off the road and came to a herd of cattle coming up the side road in a small cloud of red dust. you are tired after cooking all that food: mchuzi and beans and potatoes and rice. youre tired now lying in the dark under the fan. after you visit that Paris apartment block on the verge of extinction, your fascination for all those objects and spaces and inhabitants will not stop your eyes from closing. the batteries in this torch are running out and the fading yellow light on the yellowish paper will add to the sense of heaviness and your eyelids will close sooner than if the batteries were new and the pages bright white. it's an old book - well it's quite old. the fan is humming and slightly ticking, unless the high pitched ticking is a night insect outside. [maybe you shouldn't mention it if you don't know what it is [?] ] Kianga is quiet. [? ie out in the road ?] humans and companion species are inside. [ok baba]

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11 DEC

the rain is coming down. you're sitting on the front porch of Kalilo house at a white plastic table it's hot. the rain hits the hot ground. the rain is a cooler: it blows in under the overhang onto the tops of your feet. across the road a group of children is sheltering under the front overhang of their house. the chickens are out picking around the rubbish hole. you put out some left over rice and scraps. a black polythene tube sticking out of the front of kalilo house starts spouting then dribbling as the rain eases and sun comes up. all these effects are as operated by sliders. you can see a whitish chicken and a kind of cuckoo pattern with long yellow legs, a small black pullet. the chicks moved off to the right towards the children. now a big red cockerel with black tailfeathers and yellow feet comes running in over the thin grass and rubble on the ark umber ground. from left to right a man in yellow on a bike with an elegant young woman in a dark dress sideways on the carry rack, her back to you, reading a book or checking her messages. [cp the person you say [sic] yesterday in a pencil skirt and faux fur jacket on platform 2 at Denmark Hill texting from inside an open copy of Nausea! [by Jean-Paul Sartre] ] from where you are sitting now, in this modelling light after light rain with the levels down and a diffusing filter of grey-white cloud, you can see 9 piles of graded aggregate from grey sand to large grey-yellow rocks distributed around these lots, including a pile of coral heads almost used up, which a white goat passes from left to right enlarging towards you, inscribes an arc and is obscured left by the angle of the house. the hen with chicks from up the road has arrived at the rubbish pile: a chunky breed, like a sussex? whose are all these chickens roaming in the village and into the centre of town, with the chicks emitting contact calls and the pullets picking here and there, fluttering away from the hens and cockerels over scraps of leftovers? they belong to somebody. everybody knows their own chickens, says Goodluck George: at night they are put away in the coop. a hen coop is a small raised house. chickens live among us in raised houses of similar construction to our own. in the morning when the latch is turned, they are waiting to come down: tumbling or stepping cautiously. there are few papaya trees but many long slender coconut palms, some notched for climbing. they reach up from the surface something like hair folicles: with an enlarged [bulbous] base. they cross in mid air, in different configurations from each sightline. each trunk represents a decisive line, we can say, in time. the sky is darkening. each is topped with animated fronds.

TTCL fibre-optic

speed? variable

1-2 months to installation

quote for 150m btw buildings [ie old and new]

[a table, blank, shows speed, capacity and price, to be complete]

Mr Chande (TTCL)

mtoa    donor, taker = lender   eg maktaba ya mtoa - a lending library
jiwe    stone
-kopesha    to loan
daftari (la mazoezi)    (exercise) book, ledger, etc

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A Writer's Resource: Maion, Peritz. Yancey, McGraw Hill 2007

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kasuku (n n)   parrot
stakabadhi  receipt [risiti]

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Swaumu
Suaumu [?] [girl who sometimes sweeps - see above]

jifundishe

map schools and health centres and hospitals

Ligula School - Ligula Hospital

find Ufukoni Health Centre and link (graduates)

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coffee
food
cardboard
spray paint
bank

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spray    kinyunyizia (n)
to spray    -nyunyizia
paint    rangi
cardboard    kadibodi

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12 DEC 2012

youre sitting outside eating your supper. you're listening to the faint sounds around of people cooking and putting away for the day. the call of the night bird does not correspond to descriptions of owls or nightingales in the Birds of East Africa. you don't know what it is. you're eating quickly and drinking yoghurt from a metal cup. everybody's out. you made rice and aubergine and drank the yoghurt R brought. it was quiet in Kianga. after an hour or so you cleared up and ate a mango. you copied the audio file onto your computer. now you're going to brush your teeth and go to bed. it's quiet. by the time they all get back from their bbq you'll be asleep

mtindi         yoghurt

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13 DEC 2012

you're sitting outside kalilo house in front. you're waiting for the rain. in fact the rain [is] starting. distant thunder is heard and the rain in fact is starting: the little spigot in the roof is starting to trickle. but the air is still heavy. it begins slowly: a thin film of water has collected on the tiles by the gate and drops begin to register in that. bit by bit people gravitate to their porches under the lip of the roof and shake out their mats, beat out a rag [cloth] or sit down. Swaumu, who has been hired by Kalilo, takes a bunch of bananas from the table and comes back to sweep the tiles with water which she collects from the dribbling spigot in a bucket. a plane goes over, hidden in light grey cloud. describe the palms. the palms remain: gracile [?]: upright; each stem is a line; each top is an animated crest of fronds: the lower fronds are yellowing; the upper fronds are fresh         the finely divided leaves of the coconut fronds, especially when fresh, present as tapering strokes from the central spine and, at the same time as clearly separately delineated, acquire a haze around them as they move, tending to fill the interspace between the leaflets much as in a video the viewer fills the interspace between moving objects from frame to frame. in this way the apparent solidities of our surroundings are constructed moment by moment and the animated crests of the palms come boldly into being: against a faintly mottled grey white sky.     as the rain intensifies two birds, hidden in the centre of one palm, fly out and perch on the horizontal central rib of one slightly yellowing frond of another palm: pausing: grey white and black: before flying off. their flight suggests woodpeckers or kingfishers. [a group of] children pass[ ] on the road from one roof overhang to another. their mother is standing on a stool tying something to the underside of the roof. a woman passes with a baby [in a sling] under an umbrella of primary [rainbow] colours. the woman under the roof reaches up, arching her back, showing her long limbs and body - mwili - and begins hanging up washing o n the line she has fastened. she deals with a child that has wet its clothes: she runs through the rain to fetch a bucket; she washes the child with the child in one arm; she tosses the dirty clothes behind the wall of the building into the rain with a curiously captivating gesture seeming to embody efficiency, disregard, and some other qualities; she hangs up more clothes on the (newly constructed) covered line.    a cyclist passed in a hat. and a faded green shirt with a broad line of muddy water sprayed up his back. [some kind of exchange between the cyclist and the woman] she re dresses the child in a green t shirt and striped shorts. the child sets off with another slightly larger child dress: a red dress and pink shorts, who has been sitting by the wall. the mother stands under the overhang of the roof with the top of one hand against the small of her back and the other hand resting [hung] across her front on the opposite shoulder. she looks out across the road at the overcast sky, the children go. she goes in the house, coming back out with more washing, which she continues to hang up on the line she has fastened. in fact there   are   papaya trees: at least two: tall with clusters of bright green fruit in overlapping clusters: at the top of the bare trunk: under the brown of divided leaves: the lower leaves are slightly yellowing. the upper leaves are fresh green - as compare also other raw green foliage angled down to shed the impending rain each creature waits for. the woman stands with her arms crossed. the thunder and lightning are nearer: clipping. from the start of the day when you went out to get salt, people were breaking patches of soil up with hoes in preparation for sowing. even small patches are cultivated: among the palms, the soursops and these bushes with small bright yellow fruits like hips. two boys pass on bikes with baskets of mangoes. the woman [has] sat down [is seated now]. she sits against the wall looking out at the scene in front of her, the way sometimes a person pauses in their work, fascinated by a certain sequence of events on television. a man comes by smoking on his bicycle, calling out: the bottom of his wicker basket is full of tomatoes and cabbages hang from the rack by their stalks on string. the woman has resumed work. she unwraps her wrap, then reties it carefully. she turns to face you:       a hand on her chin. she enters the house. you see? a child in a blue dress has caught a grey chick, which she shows to the others. they keep dropping it. their mother leaves her house, crossed the road, passing in front of the gate to Kalilo house, then stands under the overhang opposite with the children. she re-fashions her wrap and adjusts the shoulder of her top, resuming the posture with one hand in the curve of her back, the other crossed resting on her opposite shoulder. a man in red shorts and a tracksuit top, passing on a mango bike, waves as he passes. S comes out with a camera. the woman looks directly across the road to where you are sit_ing under cover of the porch of Kalilo house. the rain gets a little harder; a few drops fall on the microphones. the woman returns to her house, carrying the child in green on her left hip. she sits on a green bucket under the overhang with the child on her lap and: begins washing his head with soap and rainwater collected in a yellow plastic bowl. she smiles, covering his head in lather, then rinsing it off, splashing water with her [cupped] hand, holding his head out from her lap. every now and then she pauses, as if the scene unfolding: the rain increasing, the thunder and lightning flickering in the near distance, and above all her own role (nafasi) have arrested her: she pauses. the child begins to wail. a cock crows. a man with a red rag on his head, and two charcoal men, one with full sacks, one empty, neatly rolled, pass on bikes. then a bajaj_ man and pikipiki. maybe there was soap in his eye. he stopped crying. she tosses the dirty water away over her shoulder onto the surrounding soil. crying again. hens and chicks come out in some places. the rain continues. the woman is sitting down, leaning forward against her legs and knees, while rinsing a plate in rain rain [sic] water in a bowl. two children run across the road carrying red buckets. the rain continues

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kumbikumbi - flying ants, flying termites

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13 DEC 2012

23:24 you're lying in bed on your back. the flying ants or termites called kumbikumbi began to swarm in the evening. their name means chaff or rice husks. their wings whirred and flickered in any artificial light the way rice husks rise fromt the winnowing basket when the sifter bends over and blows. there is a wing here in your bed and a million -countless : lukuki -outside shed by the ants or termites as they begin to mate. they're lying in piles under the outside lights. you recorded their wings beating at the door, drawn by the neon striplight. it's quiet in the room - only a few pairs walking on the floor. outside as well the storm is over. there was a first wave that was interrupted by rain, then a second wave: much stronger and thicker. after the first flight, when you got back from town with a bag of eggs, Secy had already fried some up. George came in with a Kilimanjaro and ate some. after that the rain was over and the second flight began to whir and flicker until, realizing we had opened the doors again, we quickly closed them and turned off the lights - before the rooms were filled with their brown crawling bodes and the dry rapid tapping of their wings on surfaces - the wings are translucent but quite tough: ochre to pale amber with a strong leading rib and delicate tracery spreading from the pointed base to the rounded tip. [these elaborate organs are then discarded] everyone's asleep or out. it's very quiet     your ears ring slightly after the insects. a few faint sounds of crickets or cicadas outside and before: that bird again

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what to do after your stuff has been stolen

tell police
tell Kalilo
stop cards
contact phone company
talk with everybody

-iba to steal
mwizi thief
ibia to rob, to steal from

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skonzi     scone
donati     donut

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a discussion with Goodluck George's assistant head teacher about what Goodluck should do after getting low grades in his year 4 examinations

re sitting not normally successful
better move on
div 4.28
Chuo cha Utumishi - M Abong [administration]
Jumi Kirati (commercial subjects, VETA)
nursing? is out [needs good results, especially in science]

record management

Villa Park [is a good bar, according to Yona, possibly run by a relative of Secy]

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Kupumzika na Kuburudisha La Moyo

Relaxation and Entertainment [of the Heart]

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Misete     [Miseti ?]     the very small fishing village you come to if you walk towards the beach from Kalilo House. at first Kalilo told us about this beach and he showed up proudly. we didn't believe him. later we saw it was the Paradise Beach. small birds collect in the scruby foliage and brown headed parrots in the trees; herons perch on the boats shaped from curved timbers floating in the bay. the bay is calm, fringed by palms: creating while swimming this optical effect: the swimmer's head protrudes, s/he feels, minimally but decisively from the fisheye of the bay: palms as lashes: sky as iris of a vast array: stooping, reciprocating at even greater scale - the swimmer spans these surfaces, s/he feels, routinely: legs rooted in the way of a ganglion in the fluid; head buried in the gas above like a tick

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Daima contacts

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Future Shorts - short animation about people's first sex (Rae)

cct utaribu ??

drawing of an arrow running into a line



____________\/_________________


___________

15 DEC 00:38

after the kumbkumbi storm the others came back and then a man came into the house and snuck into her bedroom, even into her bed under the mosquito net and he stole Rachel's computer, wallet, camera and her phone. [he was a cat burglar] the following day was hard. today was our last day in Mtwara. we finished work and went swimming [at the Miseti bay loosely called paradise beach due to its tranquility, bird life, pahali pazuri sana]. tomorrow we leave for Dar es Salaam. the alarm is set for 5

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TSH 600,000 to Rae for PASHA [?}

16 DEC 2012

when the alarm went off at 5, you re-set it to 5.30. you're sitting in the departures section of Mtwara airport. until last year the airport building at Mtwara was a wide barn-like building with fans in a large space open to the outside. now that the new building is enclosed, the AC circulates the smells of the convenience closiet. you are not allowed to wait on the rear porch, which opens directly on the air strip: patched tarmac with yellow markings leading out to the runway, with scrub woodland behind, a cloudy sky and a power line you haven't seen before. sparrows ______ to bathe in a puddle. the baggage handler who is so small, who both unloads and loads baggage onto hand trolleys, as well as dealing directly with travellers, has loaded the trolleys. [there are two trolleys, meaning they have to be wheeled out to the plane and unloaded before the plane can be unloaded onto the trolleys. then the baggage goes into the plane. one of the wheels on one of the trolleys appears to be seized up, making the trolley very difficult to push. a group of strong people is required to push hard to move it when fully loaded] the departure area is filling up. it is very newly rebuilt: there is no photograph of President Kikwete or Baba wa Taifa Mwalimu Julius Nyerere. the air temperature is cool. the walls are bare cream. you're waiting for the single flight per day from Dar es Salaam to circle in over the ocean,

[it's 10.45 on tuesday 8 JAN 2013 - which broke as a clear morning now turning to blue grey cloud - you              ]

approach the airport and land on the tarmac outside, passing directly in front of the rear windows of the departure area, finally slowing down and turning to approach the airport directly before loading and taking to the air again          your eyes are closing

your head is falling forward

______

you're on the plane. following [    ] safety demonstration, you're on the runway, the pilot says: cabin crew prepare for takeoff            as you begin to film you discover the memory card is full

by the time you change the memory card you are in the air       your head is heavy            you heard noises in the night which kept waking you

 

DAR -> LUSHOTO 7.00

GRANT SMITH
MAX BARAITSER
SAM BARAITSER
PAULA BARAITSER
SASHA BARAITSER

KARIM'S (BUSES)

to do
          finish report
          email to Flavian Magari

*104*     ..    #    add credit
*102#    balance

airtel router phone number:

bank account PIN: ____

insert: a folded A5 map of Mambo and environs, showing Mambo Viewpoint, the village of Mambo, the Shagayu forest and other features